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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate renowned high-end establishments. Yet, tucked high among these food giants is a modest salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

A Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The recognition has left the family completely shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks the family member, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small restaurant earning such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this gastronomic triumph.